Cotton in the Middle Ages
I was working on a simple cotton chemise when my lord
stuck his oar in. "Cotton for the Middle Ages?" He seemed personally offended.
"No! We all know that cotton was never used in the Middle Ages. Wool was king!
Some linen and satin and silks in the later effeminate Renaissance, but no
cotton! Only rich people could afford even small lots of it, as it came from
Egypt! And trade with there was cut off with the advance of Muslim warfare!
We weren't able to trade for it then! Muslims were the enemy! Cotton's Not
Period!!!"
Apologies, My Noble Lord, but the real story of cotton looks like this:
Fabrics Of Cotton
According to A Guide to Textiles by Mary Evans, AM and Ellen Beers
McGowan Ph.D., and published in London in 1939, fabrics which include cotton
are "Batiste, Cambric, Canton Flannel, Chambray, Damask, Lawn, Muslin, Sateen",
and "Bengaline" and they further note that "Bengaline is a material made with
fine silk or cotton filling threads." You will find many mentions of some
of these cloths in Medieval documents, yet their cotton content is seldom
acknowledged.
The History
Sir Richard Burton, in The Book of The Sword says, "The Indians,
afterwards so celebrated for their swords, were in B.C. 480 barbarians dressed
in cottons and armed with only cane bows and arrows." Daily Life In Ancient
India from Approximately 200 BC to 700 AD" by Jeannine Auboyer states
"...Since the beginning of the Christian Era...They...wove cotton (Cossypium
herbaceum) which they grew themselves and made into fragile muslins that were
then dyed in beautiful colors....These fabrics, and also carded cotton intended
for stuffing cusions and mattresses, were exported to Egypt, where the most
important textile market was held...." This would indicate Roman usage of
cottons, as Egypt traded routinely with all the Roman Empire.
The Saracens
The History and Culture of the Indian People-The Classical Age Vol. 3
says, "...in the seventh century...From the 'Amarakosa' we learn...of textiles
made of....cotton" showing that cotton textiles are still being produced and
traded to the Arabs and thence to the Med....
According to Cotton as a World Power -by James A. B. Scherer, "By
the Saracens and Moors a knowledge of the plant and it's uses was brought
into Spain in the year 712 A.D., vast fields being whitened with it's fleecy
growth and looms set up in almost every hamlet, cultivation and manufacture
alike increasing in importance until the expulsion of the Moors at the end
of the fifteenth century." The Barrier and the Bridge-Historic Sicily
- by Alfonso Lowe tells us that in 827A.D., Moslems landed for the first time
in Sicily. It took until 965A.D., to secure their foothold. "Moslem rule
was an improvement over that of Byzantium. The latifondi were divided among
freed serfs and smallholders, and agriculture received the greatest impetus
it had ever known. Thanks to a Moslem custom, uncultivated land became the
property of whoever first broke it, thus encouraging cultivation at the expense
of grazing. Practically all the distinguishing features of Sicilian husbandry
were introduced by the Arabs: citrus, cotton, carob, mulberry, both the celso,
or black, and the white morrella-sugar cane, hemp, date palm, the list is
almost endless."
In The Other Conquest by John Julius Norwich he says the Saracens
in Sicily "...introduced cotton and papyrus, citrus and date-palm and enough
sugar-cane to make possible, within a very few years, a substantial export
trade." By the end of the ninth century, says James A. B. Scherer in Cotton
as a World Power, "In Sicily...they planted lemons and bitter oranges.
They brought the knowledge of how to cultivate sugar cane and crush it with
mills...they introduced the first cotton seeds, the first mulberries and silkworms,
the date palm, the sumac tree for tanning and dying, papyrus, pistachio nuts
and melons." "They were great traders; under their rule Palermo became an
international market where merchants from the Christian Italian cities were
as welcome as Muslim merchants from Africa and the East. " says Steven Runciman
in The Sicilian Vespers. Trade was common between Arab cotton producers
and European Traders.
"Barriers" to Trade
In The Barrier and the Bridge-Historic Sicily by Alfonso Lowe, he
notes: "The so-called Dark Ages were lighter than we used to believe, and
there was a constant interchange of knowledge and ideas between the supposedly
hostile worlds of the Cross and the Crescent....The Chevron, or zig-zag, provides
an excellent example, for it decorates many a Sicilian door and window. It
is invariably adduced as evidence of Arabic workmanship, though we know exactly
when and where it originated:"
' A second decorative motif, which appears soon afterwards ' (after 1110)
, says Stoll, ' rapidly became a distinguishing charateristic of Late English
Romanesque. This was the chevron, or zig-zag, a motif whose fecundity was
such that it spread virtually everywhere...and even traveled to Apulia and
Sicily in the wake of the Normans. '
(Lowe is here quoting Architecture and Sculpture in Early Britain
London: Thames and Hudson, 1967)
This demonstrates that the trade in architectural ideas crossed the lines
from Norman to Arab. Although hostility from Christian to Muslim theoretically
would prevent contact, it happened, nonetheless.
After Roger de Hauteville was crowned King of Sicily in 1130, "There
would be no second class Sicilians. Everyone, Norman or Italian, Lombard or
Greek or Saracen, would have his part to play in the new state....A greek
was appointed Emir of Palermo...another...the navy...Control of the Exchequer
was put into the hands of the Saracens. Special Saracen brigades were established
in the army, quickly earning a reputation for loyalty and discipline which
was to last over a hundred years.", according to The Kingdom In The Sun
1130-1194 by John Julius Norwich. Lowe says, "Crusade or no Crusade, the
Normans were too shrewd to allow racial or religious considerations to interfere
with thier conquest. A hundred years later, (Palermo fell in 1072, so this
would be 1172) Christians and Saracens were living side-by-side, amicably
enough........Tolerance and adaptability were the two Norman qualities that
made the kingdom of Sicily one of the most brilliant of it's time." Scherer
notes: "During Mahometan rulership in Europe the Egyptian maritime commerce
was closed, and transportation once more followed overland routes by means
of the stately and picturesque caravan. Those famous 'Damascus' cottons of
early times were so-called merely because that city was a great distributing
depot for India goods, the two great annual caravans of merchants and pilgrams
which started from there and from Cairo meeting by pre-arrangement at Mecca,
where they exchanged commodities and then turned homeward again." So trade
was never interrupted, only rerouted during disturbances like war. At another
point Scherer says: "Cotton sail-cloth became the distinguishing product
of Barcelona after the advent of the Saracens and Moors...Spanish looms also
becoming famous for fustians and other stout stuffs." A History of Medieval
Spain by Joseph O'Callaghan says that in 1031-1212, "Silk, Cotton, linen
and woolen cloth was manufactured." and that "Cotton, linen, and silk were
grown in the vicinity of Granada and Almerica" but that while "there was
a certain amount of cotton production in the valley of the Guadalquivir" from
1212-1369, "The Christian conquest seems...to have resulted in a decline in
the cultivation of sugar cane and cotton in Andalusia". After the initial
reduction in production, however, in addition to the great increase in wool
production in Spain, "Other important textiles were cotton and silk". "Cotton
was cultivated in Italy in the twelfth century and exported to other countries."
according to Medieval Costume and Fashion by Herbert Norris. In the
Assises de Jerusalem, the following is from a list of taxes of the
kingdom of Jerusalem:
"...2. For the duties of cotton the rule commands that one should take
per hundred, 10 Besants. and 18 K.as duties. "
Trade was much too important to allow anything to get in the way, as we
see from this pronouncement of Pope Innocent III: License to Venice to
Trade With The Saracens, from 1198.
Besides the indulgence we have promised to those going at their own expense
to the east, and besides the favor of apostolic protection granted to those
helping that country, we have renewed the decree of the Lateran council which
excommunicated those who presume to give arms, iron, or wood to the Saracens
for their galleys, and which excommunicated those who act as helmsmen on their
galleys and dhows, and which at the same time decreed that they should be
deprived of their property for their transgressions by the secular arm and
by the consuls of the cities, and that, if caught, they become the slaves
of their captors. Following the example of Pope Gregory, our predecessor of
pious memory, we have placed under sentence of excommunication all those who
in future consort with the Saracens, directly or indirectly, or who attempt
to give or send aid to them by sea, as long as the war be tween them and us
shall last.
But our beloved sons Andreas Donatus and Benedict Grilion, your messengers,
recently came to the apostolic see and were at pains to explain to us that
by this decree your city was suffering no small loss, for she is not devoted
to agriculture but rather to shipping and to commerce. We, therefore, induced
by the paternal affection we have for you, and commanding you under pain
of anathema not to aid the Saracens by selling or giving to them or exchanging
with them iron, flax, pitch, pointed stakes, ropes, arms, helmets, ships,
and boards, or unfinished wood, do permit for the present, until we issue
further orders, the taking of goods, other than those mentioned, to Egypt
and Babylon, whenever necessary. We hope that in consideration of this kindness
you will bear in mind the aiding of Jerusalem, taking care not to abuse the
apostolic decree, for there is no doubt that whosoever violates his conscience
in evading this order will incur the anger of God.
As can be seen above, trade was so lucrative between arab and europe that
it continued with papal approval even when the arabs were under interdict!
In Costume History and Style, by Douglas A. Russell, 1983, he notes
that "...until the twelfth century cotton was imported from Egypt. A heavy,
all-purpose, canvaslike cotton was fustian." After that time, it was manufactured
in Europe. On page 136, he notes that "Cottons in various weights were used
primarily as undergarments." in the 13th Century. Also that "Linen weaves
included sheer lawn and fine batiste for wimples and veils..." Remember that
lawn and batiste are cotton/linen weaves.
The Cotton Guilds and World Trade
In Tradesmen and Traders - The World of the Guilds in Venice and Europe,
c. 1250 - c. 1650 on pg 5, the author mentions "The fustian (a cotton-wool
mix cloth) weavers formed a guild which included throwsters and beaters as
well..." and on pg 12, "Makers of linen and fustian formed a guild in 1275,
perhaps in response to the thriving cotton trade...". Venice was not alone.
In The Guilds of Florence by Edgecumbe Staley, on pg 346, he notes
that according to the Codex Membranaceo, under date 1295....a Guarnello, a
fustian gown for a woman, open at the front, sells for one lira, fifteen
soldi. (fustian is a wool-cotton blend. This is not terribly expensive.)
He further states on pg 350, that the materials permitted to be sold included
"Dobbletti......stuffs with cotton and flax mixtures". Herbert Norris, in
his Medieval Costume and Fashion, says, "Cotton cloth was made in France
in the thirteenth century, and a coarse thick make called Augueton, Hauberjet,
or Haberjoun, was used for making jackets, padded with cotton, to be worn
under chain-mail armour. It was almost impenetrable, and was frequently worn
by men-at-arms without any other body armour. This jacket was called a Hoqueton
or Hauqueton." So men at arms too poor for armor could afford a padded jacket
of COTTON. Other materials listed for the thirteenth century are: "Dimity,
a fine cotton cloth or fustian manufactured at Damietta in the thirteenth
century." (so much for "no trade with the saracens") and "Mollequin, a name
for COTTON muslin"
"Types of Cloth from 1307-1399 include Carda: A soft fluffy cotton cloth...used
for linings.....Best quality found in Flanders, France, Italy........" Also,
beware, as in this period we have "cottum. A wooly material woven from the
hair of cats and dogs." It wouldn't do to make a mistake here. Perhaps my
Lord would like this for his next cloak... From Cotton as a World Power
by James A. B. Scherer, we learn that Edward III (1327-1377) brought Flemish
Weavers in 1328 to England to create what are known as "Manchester Cottons".
These are new wools so fine that they rival the cotton imported from India.
A land in which cotton is unknown would not refer to a fine-wool cloth as
"Manchester Cottons"! Obviously the material was at least known.
Costume History and Style, by Douglas A. Russell states that "In
addition to the range of linens, woolens, and cottons (italics mine)
that had been staples in western Europe for centuries, there were many new
silk velvets, taffetas...." Cotton was a "staple" for centuries prior to
the fourteenth century. During the Italian Renaissance, (early 1400's)-"Venice
becomes preeminent for the distribution of cotton supplies, ESPECIALLY SOUGHT
AFTER BY THE PEOPLE OF NORTHERN EUROPE (caps mine), who, within fifty years,
established a great manufacture of their own in Saxony, Swabia, and Holland,
but especially in Flanders." Scherer also says that at this time, "Venice
was the cotton market of the world...Antwerp, the seat of manufacturing..."
A History of Medieval Spain by Joseph O'Callaghan tells us that from
1369-1479 in "Valencia the production of cotton and silk was of greater importance
than that of wool". Staley on pg 355 of his Guilds of Florence , remarks,
"In the fifteenth century fustian cotton-cloth was used for church chausibles.
The Cistercian Order of Monks was forbidden to wear any other kind. Fustian
was also generally in vogue for doublets and jackets for laymen." After the
Venetians lost the cotton trade to an alliance of Greece and Genoa (who took
Constantinople from them), the Venetians responded, says Scherer, by "turning
successfully to the acquirement of the Indo-Egyptian trade-routes through
a treaty with the Mahometans..." ...there's more of that non-existent trade
with the Saracens... We learn from Tradesmen and Traders - The World of
the Guilds in Venice and Europe, c. 1250 - c. 1650 on pg 81, that "For
much of the fifteenth century, ....the handling of goods between East and
West continued to flourish...a wide variety of goods...(including)....cotton
from Syria....tin from Cornwall..." and on pg 82,"...it is clear that the
manufacture of fustian (a mix of wool and cotton) and silk was becoming increasingly
important." and on pg 90, that "...The mercers...1446 sought to incorporate...'fustian
sellers'...", no doubt because there was an important source of revenue not
under their control. In the 15th century, states Russell, "Linen and, less
often, cotton were also used, but with little innovation or change from the
past." In The Spanish Guild Merchant-A History of the Consulado, 1250-1700
by Robert Sidney Smith, we hear that "In accordance with the law promulgated
in 1455, the jurats (of the council of 100) were drawn by lot from panels
arranged to produce the following professional and occupational distribution....."
and the list has 2 jurats coming from the wool-dressers, 2 from the cotton
dealers, and 2 from fustianmakers. One could conclude that cotton dealers
and cotton/linen (fustian) makers were both as important in their own right
as wool-dressers. We hear of cotton from Christopher Columbus in extracts
from his Journal, 1492.
"Here follow the precise words of the Admiral:
'As I saw that they were very friendly to us, and perceived that they could
be much more easily converted to our holy faith by gentle means than by force,
I presented them with some red caps, and strings of beads to wear upon the
neck, and many other trifles of small value, wherewith they were much delighted,
and became wonderfully attached to us. Afterwards they came swimming to the
boats, bringing parrots, balls of cotton thread, javelins, and many other
things which they exchanged for articles we gave them, such as glass beads,
and hawk's bells; which trade was carried on with the utmost good will. But
they seemed on the whole to me, to be a very poor people.'
In Tradesmen and Traders - The World of the Guilds in Venice and Europe,
c. 1250 - c. 1650 on pg 113, from an order in the 1580's from the mercers'
guild, "This is to be observed by cotton and cloth merchants and others who
sell mercery..." It is interesting that cotton is listed by itself, while
other cloths was the second item, and mercery as a group made up the third...it
seems indicative that there was a whole lotta cotton going on. In the 16th
century, according to Russell, "Linen and sometimes cotton were used for undergarments".
Not all the cotton business was in southern Europe. According to Ludovico
Guicciardini, (Lived 1521-1589) in his Description de la cite' d' Anvers.
(Antwerp) "Thence come Cloathes and Carsayes of all sorts and of them great
abundance, both fine and coarse...there are sent....cotten..."
Conclusion
And so, my lord, it is obvious that cotton reached Europe at a very early
date indeed, and that it's growing, manufacture and sale wasn't even slowed
by the religious wars. Indeed cotton was a major item of trade to all of Europe
in the Middle Ages, used for items as heavy as sails for ships and armor
padding, and items as light as chemises, wimples, veils, and undergarments.
So kindly stop sneering at my cotton chemise.
Bibliography
"Cotton as a World Power" -by James A. B. Scherer, Copyright 1916 by Frederick
A. Stokes Company.
"Medieval Costume and Fashion" -by Herbert Norris, Copyright 1999 by Dover
Publications, Inc.
"The Barrier and the Bridge-Historic Sicily" copyright by Alfonso Lowe,
Published for America by W. W. Norton ∓mp; Co., 1972
"Architecture and Sculpture in Early Britain" London: Thames and Hudson,
1967
"A History of Medieval Spain" by Joseph F O'Callaghan, Cornell University
Press, 1975
"A History of Sicily" vol II, "Medieval Sicily 800-1713" copyright 1968
by D. Mack Smith, Published by The Viking Press
"A History of Sicily" by M.I.Finley, D. Mack Smith, and Christopher Duggan
"The Other Conquest" by John Julius Norwich, Harper ∓mp; Row, 1967
"The Sicilian Vespers" by Steven Runciman, Cambridge University Press, 1958
"The Kingdom In The Sun 1130-1194" by John Julius Norwich, Harper ∓mp;
Row, 1970
"Tradesmen and Traders - The World of the Guilds in Venice and Europe, c.
1250 - c. 1650" Mackenney, R. - London, 1987
"The Spanish Guild Merchant-A History of the Consulado, 1250-1700" by Robert
Sidney Smith, Copyright 1940, Duke University Press, reprinted 1972 by Octagon
Books
"The Guilds of Florence" by Edgecumbe Staley, 1906
"Description de la cite' d' Anvers." (Antwerp) Guicciardini, Ludovico. (Lived
1521-1589)
" Patrologiae Cursus Completus", J. P. Migne, ed., (Paris, 1855), Vol. CCXIV,
p. 493, reprinted in Roy C. Cave ∓mp; Herbert H. Coulson, "A Source
Book for Medieval Economic History", (Milwaukee: The Bruce Publishing Co.,
1936; reprint ed., New York: Biblo ∓mp; Tannen, 1965), pp. 104-105.
Scanned by Jerome S. Arkenberg, Cal. State Fullerton. The text has been modernized
by Prof. Arkenberg.
"Taxes of the Kingdom of Jeruslem", Roland Falkner, pp. 19-23, in "Statistical
Documents of the Middle Ages ", Translations and Reprints from the Original
Sources of European History, Vol 3:2, (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania,
[n.d.] 189?), 1-23
The History and Culture of the Indian People The Classical Age Vol. 3 Edited
by: R.C. Majumdar and A.D. Pusalker Printed in India by P. H. Raman at the
associated Advertisers and Printers Limited 505, Arthur Rd., Tardeo, Bombay
7
"Daily Life In Ancient India from Approximately 200 BC to 700 AD" by Jeannine
Auboyer 1961 translated from the French by Simon Watson Taylor (English Translation
c. 1965 by George Weidenfeld and Nicolson, Ltd. )
"Costume History and Style" by Douglas Russel, New Jersey, 1983
The Below Notes were acquired after the above was written, and are
added for your information.
The importation of the cotton from the Levant in
the 16th century is mentioned by Hakluyt, and according to Macpherson it was
brought over from Antwerp in 1560.
Excerpted items from: The rates of the custome house:
London, 1545 -
Item
Toll
Bottom of threde the C. pounde.
xx.L
Bottom of threde the pounde
ii.d.
cotton olde the ell
iiii.d.
cotton newe the yarde
iiii.d.
collayne (coiled?cottayne?) threde the bale
x.li.
cotton unsponne the hundreth pound
xxvi.s.viii.d
cotton sponne the hundreth pounde xxxiii.s.iiii.d
Cotthen clothes the dossen
ii.L
Cotthen clothes of hollande makinge the dossen vi.L.viii.d
fustyan the baile
x.L
fustian anapels the pece
x.s
fustian the dz pece
v.s
packethrede the C.pounde
x.s
poyntes of threde the smalle groce
iiii.d
Lyons threde the butte
xii.d
Sypres cotten the dossen yardes
xx.s
Threden rybbonde the dossen peces
conteynynge thre papers iiii.L
Threden ribbonde the groce
ii.L
Threde the butte
xii.d
Threde the bale conteynynge a hundreth buttes v.li
Worstede threde the dossen pounde ix.s
====================================================
From: An Acte of common Councell. (1587, held at the Guildhall of the City
of London, printed at London by Hugh Singleton, "Printer for the Cittie of
London.")
"...in all and every case and causes, where the seller of any cloath or
cloathes what=
soeuer, Linnen or Wollen, Kersies, Fryses, Rugges, Bayes, Cottons, or other
cloathes or thinges whatsoe=
uer, shalbe by vertue of any Actes, custome, usage or ordinaunces heretofore
established or used within the Sayde
Citty...."
and goes on to describe how these items are to be taxed. Cotton sales were
extensive enough to be taxed in London.
====================================================
Privy Purse Expenses of Elizabeth of York:
Wardrobe Accounts of Edward IV
Part XVI.8: Index and Notes for Privy Purse Expenses
Stable, to the officers... through Zouch
# Trussing bed, for the making a, - Ent. 38 - Trussing beds were used in
travelling, when it was the custom for persons of consequence to carry their
beds with them. Palsgrave translates "Trussyng bedde" by "lit de champ," i.e.,
field bed. John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, gave, by his will, dated in
February 1397, to his Duchess, "mes lits faites pur mon corps, appelles en
Engleterre, trussyng beddes." Nichols' Royal Wills, p. 155. In the list of
horses kept by the Earl of Northumberland were, "A horsse for my lordes cloth-sak
with his bedde," and "a hors for the grome of the stable to ryde upon that
ledes the cloth-sak horsse that caryeth my lords trussynge bed and all thyngs
belongynge yt when he rydes his hors." -- Northumberland Household Book,
pp. 55, 120, 358, 359. Dr. Percy conjectures that a trussing bed could be
trussed or packed in a cloth-sek or portmanteau. "To truss," means to pack
close. A pair of trussing coffers were sent to the King of Scotland in 1430.
Fœdera, x. 470; and the same articles, as well as "cotton to trusse plate,"
are mentioned in the Privy Purse Expenses of Henry VIII., pp. 49, 190. In
the "Form of Making the King's Bed," temp. Henry VIII., to trusse seems to
be used synonymously "to tuck in." "The first sheete to be layed and then
to trusse in both sheete and fustyan rounde about the bedde of downe," "to
trusse the endes of the said sheete under every end of the bolster." -- Archæologia,
iv., 313. A remarkable instance of the use of the word trussing will be found
in the Wardrobe Accounts of Edward IV.
======================================================================
Privy Purse Expenses of Elizabeth of York:
Wardrobe Accounts of Edward IV
Part XVI.2: Index and Notes for Privy Purse Expenses
Baybroke through Christenings
# Chaplain of the Bishop of Murray, a reward given to the, - Ent. 39.
# Chariot, to a poor man that drove, the, - Ent. 27.
# Charre, cotton russet for the queen's, - See Note at the end on Chairs
and Chariots.
# Cheeses brought, - Ent. 10, 19, 20, 23, 53 - These cheeses came from Lanthony
Priory, near Gloucester, and similar entries occur in the Privy Purse Expenses
of Henry VIII., from 1529 to 1532.
Note: Chairs, -- for mending, garnishing, and repairing: See Part XVII,
"Expenses Necessarie" and Part XIX, "For the Office of the Beddes..."
Cotton was the material, russet was the grade of fabric, a rough weave suitable
for upholstery.
========================================================
http://www.huntington.org/BotanicalDiv/Timeline.html
BC
4000 Cotton seed dating from this
time period have been found in Pakistan.
======================================================
http://www.huntington.org/BotanicalDiv/Timeline.html
c694 Trees bearing wool (cotton)
were introduced to Assyria by Sennacherib.
======================================================
The earliest reference to cotton is found in the Rig-Veda written about
1500 BC. More than a thousand years later, the great Greek historian Herodotus
testified that Indians possessed "a kind of plant, which, instead of fruit,
produces wool, of a finer and better quality than that of sheep : of this
the Indians make their clothes". Soon India had a flourishing trade in cotton
textiles with Greece, Egypt, Persia and the Roman Empire. For twenty centuries
thereafter, Indian cotton fabrics clothed the kings, the nobles and the slaves
alike in most parts of the Old World.
What is astonishing is that even two milleniums after the Indian cotton
muslins found their way in the ancient civilization of Athens and Rome,
cotton spinning and weaving remained almost the exclusive monopoly of skilful
Indian craftsmen. As Baines observes, it was not until the 13th century that
the cotton industry "was introduced into Italy or Constantinopole, or even
secured a footing in the neighbouring empire of China". And even so, outside
India, in both Europe and Asia, the industry had only "a lingering and ignoble
existence" and was hard put to face the stiff competition from imports of
finer Indian muslins and calicoes.
http://www.ecottonindia.com/history.htm
The Tyndale New Testament was the first ever printed in the English language.
Its first printing occurred in 1525/6, but only one complete copy of the first
printing exists. Any Edition printed before 1570 is very rare and valuable,
particularly pre-1540 editions and fragments. Tyndale's flight was an inspiration
to freedom-loving Englishmen who drew courage from the 11 years that he was
hunted. Books and Bibles flowed into England in bales of cotton and sacks
of flour. In the end, Tyndale was caught: betrayed by an Englishman that he
had befriended. Tyndale was incarcerated for 500 days before he was strangled
and burned at the stake in 1536. His last words were, "Lord, open the eyes
of the King of England".
http://www.greatsite.com/engbibhis/
Cotton has over a milenia
of documented use in the old
world, so there is little reason to
claim everywhere we see the word it
means sheep's wool until sometime
in the 19th century. Again, this is
_not_ saying it was more common
than wool or linen at that time, but
merely stating it _was_ around
and apparently used more often than many
would have us think
-quoted from a U of Waterloo, CA SCA fabric discussion post. What a great
way to put it!
David Rickman <drickman@state.de.us>
===============================
Title: The herball or Generall historie of plantes. Gathered by Iohn Gerarde
of
London Master in Chirurgerie
Author: Gerard, John, 1545-1612.
Other Authors: Dodoens, Rembert, 1517-1585.
Rogers, William, b. ca. 1545,
Imprint: Imprinted at London : by [Edm. Bollifant for [Bonham Norton and]
Iohn
Norton,
Date: 1597
Bib Name/Number: STC (2nd ed.) / 11750
In Gerarde's Herball, 1597, on page 753, he speaks ”Of the Bombaste,
or Cotton plant”. After a description and picture of the plant which
leave no doubt possible as to what plant is meant, he says,
”It groweth in India, in Arabia, Aegypt,&in certaine Ilands of the Mediterranean
Sea,as Cyprus, Candia, Melita, Sicilia, and in other provinces of the continent
adjacent. It groweth about Tripolis,and Alepo in Syria,from whence the
Factor of a worshipfull merchant in London, Master Nicholas Lete before remembered,did
send unto his said Master divers pounds weight of the seede...”
Here we establish that Cotum is cotton, bombaste is cotton, and in German
(high Dutch) it's tree wool. Definitely cotton.
“ Cotton is called...in shops Lanugo,bombax,and Cotum: in Italian Bombagia:in
Spanish Algodon: in high Dutch Baum-wool:in English and French Cotton,Bombaste,
or Bombace.”
He quotes Theophrastus' mention of it, and Pliny. He quotes Pliny
as saying that “Linsie woolsie” is actually “linnen that is made of it” (cotton).
After giving the medical uses of cotton, he then goes on to say:
“To speake of the commodities of the wool of this plant it were superfluous.
Common experience and the daily use and benefit we receive by it doth shew.
So that it were impertinent to our history, to speake of the making of Fustian,
Bombasies, and many other things that are made of the wooll thereof.”
(”common experience”,”daily use and benefit”, and specifically nailing the
plant to the ingredients of “Fustian, Bombasies, and many other things”)
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